Corner-to-corner Shell Stitch
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Please note, this tutorial will take a few moments to load as it has many pictures to help you master this stitch- thank you for your patience!
This is the Right Handed Version of the Corner-to-Corner Shell Stitch.
This tutorial will produce 4″ x 4″ square – the perfect size for a coaster.
If you wish to make a 8″ x 8″ square instead – continue to increase shell groups until you have 9 sets of shell groups in height – then begin to decrease on both sides of your project (as shown beginning in Step 31).
If you wish to make an Afghan – you would continue to increase shell groups until you have reached a desired length; then begin to decrease. To make a square, you need to make decreases on both sides. To make a rectangle you need to make decreases on one side only (for example – decrease length but continue to add extra shell groups on width).
I hope you find this tutorial helpful – the left-handed version is available here: C2C Shell Stitch – Left Handed Version
How to find the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts
Corner to Corner Coaster Pattern & Tutorial
Yarn: Red Heart with Love
Hook: 6.0 mm (J)
Step 1: ch 5
Step 2: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch sts (*the first shell group*)
Step 3: ch 5
Step 4: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch sts
Step 5: flip the *first shell group* to allow you to work into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts in Step 2 [Line up the green dots shown in the image for Step 4]
Step 6: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts in the *first shell group*
Step 7: ch 2
Step 8: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 9: ch 5
Step 10: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch sts
Step 11: flip your work so it looks like mine in the above image.
Step 12: flip the end up to align the green dots – to allow you to work into the skipped 2 ch sts
Step 13: this is your work flipped into the correct position
Step 14: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts in the next shell group
Step 15: ch 2
Step 16: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 17: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 18: ch 2
Step 19: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 20: ch 5
Step 21: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch sts
Step 22: flip your work to align the green dots (see image in Step 21)
Step 23: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 24: ch 2
Step 25: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 26: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 27: ch 2
Step 28: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 29: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group, ch 2
Step 30: 3 dc into the same sp
Note: We are now beginning to decrease. If you want to make an 8×8 square instead of the 4×4 size coaster you will need to continue increasing shell groups – see steps 20-22 – and continue to add increases to both ends of your diagonal rows until you have 9 sets of shell groups [for the 8×8 Afghan Square] for the length of your piece. Then you will begin decreasing as shown in Steps 31-35. To make an Afghan you will need to continue increasing shell groups until your project has reached the desired length and then decrease (decreases on both sides will make a square piece ; decrease on one side only to make a rectangle) until you have formed the square or rectangle shape.
Step 31: ch 1, turn, 1 sl st into each of the next 3 dc sts,
Step 32: 1 sl st around the ch 2
Step 33: ch 2
Step 34: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 35: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 36: ch 2
Step 37: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 38: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 39: ch 2, 3 dc into the same sp
Step 40: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 41: ch 1, turn, 1 sl st into each of the next 3 dc sts
Step 42: 1 sl st around the ch 2
Step 43: ch 2
Step 44: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 45: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 46: ch 2
Step 47: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 48: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 49: turn, ch 1
Step 50: 1 sl st into each of the next 3 dc sts
Step 51: 1 sl st around the ch 2
Step 52: ch 2
Step 53: 3 dc into the same sp
Step 54: 1 sl st into the space created by the 2 skipped ch sts of the next shell group
Step 55: sc evenly around the outside of the square to finish
Happy crocheting!
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Hi Karen, I don’t have that post as a for sale item but if you take the link to the post and pop it into the Printfriendly website it will create a PDF for you without the ads. Let me know if this doesn’t work please – I have a post explaining how to do this here: https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/how-to-make-a-pdf-from-any-post-online/ All the best, Rhondda
Is it possible to purchase this pattern without all the ads? It will not print completely. Thanks
This looks a lot like the normal c2c stitch but I’m eager to try it. Thank you so much for making a print version! I have neck problems and trying to crochet and read the pattern on a screen is very difficult and uncomfortable. Being able to pick it up, read the instructions, study the photos and then work the pattern is a relief.
I’m off to see the rest of your site.
Rhondda,
Thank-you so much! I like the way this stitch works up and wanted to find the designer. After finding many patterns using this stitch ,identifying the designer, I realized the creator of the stitch is not identified.
This raises my appreciation for designer’s’ which was pretty high to begin with. I found that the chain at the beginning of the row caused a bump on the edge, so I used only 2 chains there.
Hi Patricia 🙂 Stitches, like letters in the alphabet cannot be ‘copyrighted’ because they are a building block upon which a pattern (or word) is created. That being said, the way a stitch is presented and the pattern written to present it can be copyrighted. If you use this stitch to create something different – so a scarf, or wrap, etc. the pattern you write becomes yours – but you do not ‘own’ the stitch itself. It is the finished written pattern which is copyrighted and how you present it – your format or style and how you ‘string’ the words together. You would need to write it in your own words and use your own images for your specific finished pattern/design. Does this make sense? It can be hard to explain…Many stitches / stitch patterns can be found in stitch pattern dictionaries and I actually contacted a number of publishers to make sure I was ‘ok’ to create patterns (i.e. blocks or dishcloths or garments) using the stitch – and I was advised as long as I do not copy word-for-word the written instructions in the publication I can apply the stitch to whichever design I make and it is allowable 🙂 This applies to ‘stitches’ though – not published patterns – so resizing a published design like a top, or sweater, does not count as a new design because you are using the original maths to create a different size of the same thing 🙂 Hope this helps! PS you likely will see this same stitch in many places and books – I chose to use only a ch 2 (if I am remembering correctly) because the yarn I was using was making the ch 3 buckle a bit – so if you do try this in a different yarn you might want to increase to a ch 3 if it seems a bit ‘tight’. All the best, Rhondda
I’ve been crocheting for years and when someone asks for something easy, the corner-to-corner always come up. I wanted to try it because of the diagonal stripes. I needed it to be a lapghan. I wasn’t sure how the piece would finish once I created the third corner and it came out perfectly. I love the texture
I tried to link the pattern to a designer. I see this pattern is ‘by’ the person who has created a color scheme or as you, Rhondda, did with the tutorial. So how does it work when a stitch is created. I haven’t noticed a stitch attributed to a designer.
This is one of my favorite stitch patterns but I’ve struggled with other sets of directions. This is by far the best directions I’ve ever used! Thanks for the pictures—they help a lot. I’ll be referring to this whenever I want to use this pattern.
Maymie
Thanks a lot for this wonderful photo tutorial!
I tried and tried to learn the corner to corner stitch but I only completed the first 6 blocks, then I didn’t know how to proceed!
Your photos are quite clear and I will give it a new try!
Thanks!